The Last Day Will Be Easy -- Right?

Even I would say it is unfair.  3,265 feet of climbing on the last day?  A 6 mile climb, a 1.2 mile climb, a 1.5 mile climb and another 1 mile climb!  Wow!  To top it off, the wind is howling out of the WSW with gusts close to 30 mph and the riders are going south.  It was a slog, to say the least. Fortunately, only 30 miles.  The riders did an awesome job.

This was my last day to SAG, and I felt fortunate.  One of those climbs had to be at least a 10% grade.  The road was pretty open, so it was difficult to control the bike.

We started in St. Mary and finished in East Glacier.  The last night's accommodations were at Glacier Park Lodge, the best one so far.

This was at the first SAG of the day.  Completely exposed following a previous wildfire.  Thought for sure riders would get wet but everyone was dry all day.

Sky still looks threatening further down the route.

Glacier Park Lodge, East Glacier

As we ran down the last hill on the route, all traffic was stopped.  I was more than a little concerned that the last riders might have gone down, timing would have been just about right.  Fortunately, this is what we found --

Mother and her two cubs were out for a Sunday afternoon stroll.  All riders were found safe in East Glacier.  Our ride was complete!

Going to the Sun -- Logan Pass 6,644'

It was an early morning.  The time restrictions are in play getting to the top, but for some reason not going down on the other side.  Breakfast was at 6 a.m., earliest start time so far.  Skies were gray and a little threatening, but temperatures were the coolest so far as we expect it to be cold at the top.

Climbing started right away, with a very slow grade.  Roads were incredibly quiet and early on pretty well limited to other cyclists doing the same thing.

I leap frogged with a group of three young woman riding on their own.  I asked if this was a "training ride" for them.  They confessed, just like us, this was a once in a lifetime opportunity.  We had a nice visit back and forth up the mountain.

The "real climbing" started at mile 11, and continues for another 10 miles, which means the grade was steeper.  But, as the guides had predicted, it was actually easier than Washington Pass and Sherman Pass that we had already done.

In total, all of our riders made it to the top with plenty of time to spare.

The scenery continues to be spectacular.  Some riders saw mountain goats on the way up.  The pavement was as smooth as butter.  We couldn't (or shouldn't) ask for better riding conditions.

Going to the Sun starting from Lake McDonald

On the way up

13.5 miles up

Waterfall

Wildflowers

Wildflowers

There wasn't much time spent at the top.  It was pretty cold and windy.  I spent enough time there to take a restroom break, add clothes and eat a quick sandwich.  By that time, fog was starting to roll in.

The downhill side was 18 miles long, that turned out to have a really good tailwind.  BUT, we also had road construction, so there were a few obstacles and one significant dely.  The construction folks worked like a well oiled machine to get us all through safely, but the delay (which was near the top) made me get even colder.   The benefit was that the road surface continued to be smooth as glass, no markings AND no traffic behind us.  It would have only been safer if the road would have been closed.

St Mary Lodge was our destination today.  The Lodge was beautiful and had hanging baskets that were really gorgeous.

We're on Blackfoot Reservation land during Indian Days, an annual pow wow that occurs over four days.  We will be on the same reservation when the ride concludes in East Glacier tomorrow.

Glacier is Spectacular!

As expected, it's been a few days without reliable connectivity.  We're officially at the end of the ride, but I'll try to catch up day by day.

Friday, we entered Glacier.  Wow!  Everything everyone says is true.  It's big, it's spectacular, it's awesome.  There's lots of pictures.

The route was Whitefish to Lake McDonald, officially 40 miles.  The latter portion of the route was Going to the Sun Road, so we, as bikers, had to be in and off the road by 11. The road is closed to cyclists daily, 11 - 4.

Traffic was gracious but generally not much room.  There are plenty of turnouts, but some have a drop off.  One rider went down trying to do the right thing to let traffic by, but then couldn't get back onto the pavement.  Fortunately, no serious injury....and the bike was okay!

Lots of riding rules when in the park:
only 4 riders per group
1/4 mile between groups to allow vehicles the ability to maneuver between groups, and
we had to be identifiable to the tour group.

The upside, we were able to bypass the long lines of traffic at the park entrance!  The ranger at the booth just waved us all through!

We entered the park at West Glacier, then had 10 more miles to the Lake McDonald Lodge.  Our overnight accommodations were in the Lake McDonald cabins.  The Lodge was really spectacular.

We entered from West Glacier.

The Lodge is beautiful and staff helpful and knowledgeable.

Rooms would not be ready until 4, so riders needed to plan alternate activities for the day.  So first things first when we arrived, lunch at the Lodge.  After lunch, some riders took a boat ride on Lake McDonald with narration by a park service specialist.  Then there was a time when folks were looking for something to do.  What do bikers do when they're bored?

PARKING LOT BIKE WASH!

Since we're not in a campground, the kitchen is not able to cook, so the remainder of our meals are either cold (like breakfast) or at concessionaires at or around the park.  With the experience of the guides, I'm confident we won't go hungry and quality will still be good.

Weather continued to be warm and cabins are without air conditioning.  Our cabin had a nice front porch on it, so we could sit out after supper and watch activity on the Lake and wildlife in the woods.

Lake McDonald, still very hazy with smoke.

Cars used for tours of the park.

Tomorrow is the ride everyone's been waiting for Going to the Sun and Logan's Pass.  We hope for good weather, and strong legs.

Closing In

Only 3 riding days remain in the trip.  Today's route was 58 miles from Eureka to Whitefish.  As long as we were on two lane country roads, the route and scenery were spectacular. 

Along the route.  We've seen very few boats or people fishing.

But there were long segments on highway 93 that didn't have shoulders and had heavy traffic.  For many, it was uncomfortable.  There was a mile segment coming into Whitefish that was under construction, i.e. no pavement, all gravel and dirt with heavy equipment trying to maneuver around.  To say the day might have been a little dicey, is probably accurate.  But, everyone is in safe.

We traveled through Fortine, Stryker and Olney before arriving in Whitefish.  Most are very small and may only have a store, cafe or camping facility.

We met a new friend at the last sag stop today.  The stop was set up in a wide area at the end of a ranch driveway.  Olivia, 2 1/2 years old, rode her Radio Flyer trike to see what we were up to.  She was incredibly cute and quite talkative to a bunch of strange bikers.  She was escorted by an adult, mom or aunt perhaps.  We shared our sag with her and she was thrilled.  Told us to be careful of the cars. (OMG)

Whitefish is really active.  I believe one of the gateways to Glacier.  Most of the riders stopped at the Glacier Cyclery on the way through town, and some helped the local economy.  We also had lunch at one of the nearby cafes.  Food and staff were excellent.

Tomorrow we leave early for Glacier.  As a commercial operator we have to be inside the park by 11.  The route is 40 miles.  We'll stay at Lake McDonald Lodge.

On Saturday, we head to Logan Pass on Going-to-the-Sun-Road with the overnight at St. Mary.  The forecast is not favorable, but everyone is focused in on that day.

SAG Day to Eureka

I had SAG from Libby to Eureka.  It was a 67 mile day.  I actually started in a jacket, but it warmed up by the end of the day.

The route meander along the Kootenai River and Lake  Koocanusa after passing the Libby Dam.  The lake is 90 miles long and was established in 1972 for flood protection and hydroelectric power. It was a joint project between Canada and the United States.  The lake got its name by combining the first three letters of "Kootenai River," "Canada," and "United States."

Scenery along the route.  You can see water levels are low and still a smokey haze.

Libby Dam

Lake Koocanusa Bridge -- location of final "official" SAG of the day

 The terrain was rolling hills most of the day.  It was almost a perfect day to bike, although the temperatures did rise by the end of the day.  There was very little complaining after what the group has endured.

The final riders stopped at Rexford for lunch, about 8 miles from the end of the day's route.  It appeared to be an RV/camper community complete with a post office, fire department and two restaurants.  The riders stopped at the cafe/general store.  From what I got of the conversation after I arrived, the cafe may not have been opened for the business day yet but the owner served them anyway.  I can only speak for the ice cream, that was fantastic but I believe all the food was a big hit.

Lunch stop

After lunch, I jumped ahead of the riders about five miles to sit and wait for them to come through.  I found myself under an osprey nest, complete with mother osprey who made sure I knew where her territory was.

The group is still watching for bear and moose.  No sightings yet.

The overnight was at the Ksanaka Inn -- another interesting place.  Motel/convenience store/gas station/Subway/real estate office; and the mecca of all things cycling!  Not only were we there, but a group of bikers following the Continental Divide trail and motorcyclists everywhere!

The Continental Divide group are riding mountain bikes and carrying all their gear.  Someone arranges their overnight accommodations whether camping or motel rooms but the riders have to set up and also prepare their own meals.  They are a tough group!  Their route takes them over all kinds of terrain, not just paved roads.

As you can tell, internet access has become more sporadic and appears it will become even more rare as we arrive in the Glacier area.  I'll catch up as access is available.

Red Flag Warnings -- 95 Mile Route -- Rain

We had almost everything today, except heat.  Hurray!! While we were eating breakfast there was a Red Flag Warning issued. Winds were so strong on the way out of Sandpoint, it was difficult to stay upright on the bike.  Fortunately, we managed to ride out of those kinds of winds until the last 15 miles.  Red Flag Warnings are pretty serious in this area because it not only indicates high wind but also high fire danger.

With high mileage scheduled, breakfast was at the hotel at 6.  Again, the hotel exceeded expectations and was prepared early so that most of the group was on the road by 6:15.  

Today was a day to find friends and stick together.  I rode with a group of six most of the day and we pace lined the majority of the route.  Photo opportunities were minimized today.  The only thing I saw was the wheel in front of mine most of the day.  So the potential moose sightings did not materialize but we did see an eagle fairly close by hunting for his dinner.  He was huge and just beautiful (but no photo to memorialize the sighting).

We entered Montana today at mile 35, but no "Welcome to Montana" sign anywhere to be found.  Based on the vehicle traffic we encountered today, "Welcome" might not be the correct word.  Much more aggressive than traffic so far.  We spent the majority of the day on state highways, so traffic was heavy.

We've also noticed a heavy haze in Montana, presumably due to all the area wild fires.

After leaving Sandpoint, we also saw Hope, Idaho and Clark Fork before entering Montana.  We entered the Kootenai National Forest and had lunch at a little roadside sandwich shop that was excellent.  We also went through Troy, Montana and many riders took in the Kootenai Falls before arriving at Libby.

Kootenai River

Rain started at mile 70 and was briefly pretty heavy, but didn't last too long.  Long enough, though, to create a mess for bikes and clothes.  The hotel laundry will be busy tonight.

We also changed time zones today.  We're now on Mountain, so it's a bit of an adjustment after a long day.

Tonight's evening meal is being provided by the hotel in Libby.  This staff has also been excellent and seemed genuinely happy to have us here.

Tomorrow is a SAG day for me.  The route is 68 miles to Eureka.  Forecast looks like cool evenings and warm day but no rain while we're there.  Looks like less climbing with mostly rollers until we get to Glacier.

We Wish All Days Were Like This One

28 miles to Sandpoint.  Temps were cool enough for arm warmers this morning!  But, this afternoon had a little heat and humidity.

What a great route along the Pend Oreille River, unfortunately that meant a little headwind.

Pend Oreille River

Osprey nest

We have seen a few of these platforms and some have had nests on top.  Earlier in the week we saw ospreys in one of them.

Part of today's route was bike path.  It was pretty rough but nice to be out of heavy traffic.  As we crossed the river going into Sandpoint, there was a Burlington Northern Sante Fe train crossing going the other direction.

We arrived by 10.  This hotel receives the kudos of the day for having rooms ready by that time!

As soon as we dropped gear off and changed into non-bike clothes and shoes we were off to the local bike shop for repairs then adventuring through town to see the sites and shops, including the Sandpoint City Beach.

While in town we heard of evacuations in the area due to wild fires.  We'll continue to keep an eye on that.

Tomorrow we'll move into Montana with a 95 mile day to Libby.  Day by day we're closing in on the final destination.

We've Made It to Idaho

We entered Idaho on Saturday, July 4.  The route was published as 101 miles. Everyone was careful not to get off track, and fortunately the route was not difficult.  The heat continues which made the mileage a tough day.  I was SAG that day.

The plan was to set up SAG stops at 15 miles, following a 5 mile climb; and at 30 miles, just before an awesome 4 mile technical descent.  The van would meet the riders at 40 miles to provide lunch, and I would move ahead.

The climb was early with shade and the coolness of early morning, but that means everyone spreads out quickly on the climb.

After lunch I had to hustle to catch the front, who had been without support for over 2 hours since they'd left the lunch stop.  Then, I started back through the group and stopped at each rider or group of riders to provide water.  I had buy ice twice on Saturday to add to the water jug to help keep the water cold.  Water bottles on bikes don't stay cold very long with the heat of the pavement so close.  When I stopped the second time, I found an ice shortage of some nature as everyone in the convenience store was there for ice and the coolers were bare.  It was brutal.

About half the group completed the route, with the final group arriving at Priest River around 6 p.m., roughly 12 hours after the start.  It's hard to describe what it's like to ride that kind of mileage in that kind of heat.  The final riders were stopping about every 5 miles just for a short break off the seat and away from the heat of the pavement.

The route was beautiful and took us through or near Crystal Falls, Usk and Newport.  We were also able to view the Manressa Grotto and traveled through the Kalispell Tribe of Indians -- having a nice visit with one of the tribes' law enforcement officials who stopped to make sure we didn't need assistance.  That was probably a matter of opinion at that point, but we assured him we were fine.

One of the amazing things of that day, was re-tracing the route with one of the riders to find a misplaced iPad.  It was found along the road where it had been dropped about 30 miles from the end.  After laying in the heat all day, it actually still worked; and all was right with the world.

There were some fireworks over the river that evening, and Sunday was an off day in Priest River which means laundry, cleaning out the SAG vehicle and watching the USA win the World Cup.  

More mail was waiting at Priest River, so here is Saturday's joke from Sophia and Natalie (it's a good one) --

Q:  What did one eye say to the other?

A:  Between me and you, something smells!

Inquiring Minds Want to Know...

When on a tour, especially long distance, there's so much time to take things in, ponder and wonder why?  So, today we're at the second sag at the top of Sherman Pass when a loaded log truck and trailer pulls in.  The driver gets out and somehow extends out the hitch for the pup to about six foot or so before he starts down the other side.  Inquiring minds at the SAG want to know why?  We expect Dale or Rick can probably answer.

We've seen many of these trucks during the past few days, and today's route took us past two different Boise Cascade facilities.  Seeing all that timber in various stages of preparation is fascinating, and the smell is amazing!

We've made it to Colville.  Mileage was pretty short today, 56 miles; but there was the 17 mile, 4 - 6% grade climb to Sherman Pass this morning and the heat continues.  I know it's starting to be a broken record.  There's no expectation of any change soon.

Climbing in the morning was a welcome change.  Everyone managed well as it was only 59 degrees when we left Republic and the climb good shade.  By the time we arrived at the top, things were starting to heat up. 

At the top of Sherman Pass, 5,575'

Climbing to the top

After a 20 mile, 6% downhill run, everyone was trying to finish the last 20 plus miles as efficiently as possible.  It was 99 when I arrived at 1:30.

Scenery was magnificent all along the way today, both up and down from the Pass.

View of the Columbia River as we came down from Sherman Pass

Crossing the Columbia River

Lots of activity in Colville seems to be related to the holiday weekend, but we can also see another fire across the ridge behind the motel we're in.  There's been a flurry of fire fighting equipment moving out of town since we arrived and the sound of helicopters, which may or may not be related.  We'll hope for the best for everyone.

If all continues as planned, we move into Idaho tomorrow.  A 101 mile day into Priest River then a rest day.  Weather appears to be similar there as it is here.  The group is apprehensive, but I'm sure we'll have an early start to help get as much of the route completed as possible before the heat of the day.  I have SAG tomorrow, so we'll be prepared to support the riders no matter what happens.

Hope everyone has a great 4th of July!

There's This Really Great Property -- "Own Your Own Zip Code!"

This is the reason to do tours.  You run into the most interesting things and people.  Who knew you could own your own zip code?!  Plus a house, outbuildings, cafe and gas station all in one property!

This was in Wauconda, and was the only property to be seen, but did include the post office.  

While here, I talked to two riders who were biking from Washington to Pennsylvania, self-supported. We've seen them the past couple of days. I would hate to do all this climbing with all the gear they have.  Good luck to Bob and Jay!

Today was a SAG day for me, 69 miles and three summits.  The biggest was Wauconda Pass at 4,310'.  The heat continues to be a significant challenge.  It was 97 degrees when the final rider finished today.  Thankfully, everyone made it in safe.

We only got two SAG stops in, before I had to start moving back and forth through the group to make sure everyone had enough water and nutrition to get through.  The group spread out fairly quickly once the climbing started. 

The van with the trailer required unexpected service, so wasn't available for part of the day.  Fortunately, the local dealership in Tonasket (on our route) found a screw through the tire and it was quickly able to be repaired.

The countryside was varied today, a lot of rock and desert type vegetation but also pine trees and pastures.

We've seen more cattle in the last two days.  Pasture is plentiful, but there are also a lot of irrigated alfalfa fields everywhere.  We seem to already be out of orchard country.

While we were sitting at the second SAG we could hear fighters overhead and could see jets doing rolls above us.  We also observed a very steady convoy of Forest Service vehicles and fire fighters headed east (the direction we are traveling).

When we arrived in Republic, we could see wild fires in the distance.  The fires are reported to be south of our route so tomorrow we move on to Colville, crossing Sherman Pass (5,575') along the way.  Tomorrow's climbing starts 2.5 miles from where we are staying tonight, so we're all hopeful to complete the major climbing before the heat of the day.  But, the wild fire situation will be monitored and adjustments made if needed.

Day 5 -- Winthrop to Omak -- 96 Degrees

Yesterday was an off day in Winthrop.  Provided opportunities for laundry; cleaning bikes after Monday's rain; a little site seeing in town; and tubing.

Front side of our hotel -- Winthrop Inn.  Innkeepers and staff were fabulous.  Not everyone appreciates a bike invasion.

Without anywhere to be at any designated time, I actually slept for awhile yesterday morning.  Then we were off on our bikes to find the laundry at a local RV park a couple of miles away.  Whew!  The legs were barking a little after the previous day's climbing, mileage and heat.

Once we were back, we cleaned the grit off the bikes to get ready for today's climbing and 48 miles to Omak.

We rode back into town for lunch then did a little site seeing and shopping.  Came back to clean the SAG vehicle to get "Little Bo Peep" ready for the next leg of the trip.  Some folks found time to do some tubing on the Methow River that flows through town and right behind the motel.  The majority of us went out for supper last night at The Little Red Schoolhouse. We had it on good authority that the burgers and onion rings were to die for.  So what's the point of all this riding if you can't eat whatever you want? (Just sayin')

It was a nice day off, and the first tour I've been on where there's an off day immediately following a big ride day.  I think it helps, but only time will tell.  Check back on July 13 for that one.

This morning the ride chef prepared breakfast as the motel does not provide breakfast.  She had scrambled eggs with spinach and feta cheese, a variety of fruit and caramel rolls from the Marblemount stop.  It's really quite amazing how she does this all with only a two burner cook top in the trailer.  It's like eating around the campfire every time.

Today's route was 48 miles with 2 climbs, 1 of 10.5 miles the other 1.5 miles (with a grade that just wasn't fair).  We left Winthrop around 7:30 and worked our way around the foothills until the first climb started at 11.5 miles.

Grades on the first climb varied between 5 and 9%, and took us to Loup Loup Pass.  I was unsuccessful in determining the origin of that name, but it gave us all quite a chuckle.

This climb was long, much of it without shade and temperatures were rising.  So, it was all about the "find it and grind it" approach all the way to the top.  The sleeveless jersey has been the best investment of the year so far.

At the top

In this area the remnants of last year's wild fires were very visible.  Burnt trees still standing with houses being re-built, but other homes not touched.  

This home was spared last year, but the majority of the surrounding trees and vegetation were burned.

We are quite a distance from the current fires in Wenatchee and shouldn't get any closer; but we've all commented about the fireworks stands we see alongside the road and wonder why there's not a ban.  Even to those of us not from the area, it appears to be incredibly dry.

After crossing Loup Loup Pass, the fun started for about 8 miles of amazing, technical descent!  Screaming!  And then, we hit the 1.5 climb at the bottom of that descent.  Ugh!  Granted it was only a mile and a half, but it was 8% and not quite close enough to the downhill to use enough momentum to get up the other side.  Such a shame!

But, even better, we weren't finished descending.  Lots of fun, but I wound up with a straight truck loaded with lumber behind me plus a parade of cars.  We were going so fast (at least by bike standards) and nowhere to pull off, he rode behind me all the way down.  When he managed to pass, the brakes were smoking.  I was really grateful for his patience.

Today's route also took us through Twisp and Okanogan.  We're now into orchard country. I didn't realize, at least some, apple orchards are covered with netting to protect them from birds.  I've only seen this in areas that raise ginseng.

Apple orchard

Not sure if these are put to use for fighting wild fires or crop dusting.  I would suspect fires since one of them appears to be a Marine helicopter.

The final 8 miles today had to be the toughest of all.  Yes, it was flat, but after the descents we turned into the wind.  With the temps near their max for the day by then, it was difficult at best.  I was happy to see a Subway next to the hotel and be able to get some real food to finish the day.

Tomorrow I sag.  It's supposed to continue to be hot.  The route will be 69 miles to Colville (still in Washington).  I think they're going to try to get an early start since the motel has a full breakfast available.  I'll be watching the riders closely.  Some seem to be struggling with the heat, but I think they're stronger than they realize.  The key will be to get out, get it done early and hydration.